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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.